Author Archive

According to Ruhlman, I’m spot on…

Ruhlman in the kitchen PHOTO: Donna Ruhlman

If you’re a cookbook hoarder like I am no doubt your shelves include “Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing” and “Ruhlman’s Twenty” and “Riot” and “The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute of America” or any of the other eight books-and-counting titles penned by the one and only Michael Ruhlman, a food-learned man who has lived a true food life in front of and behind the lines, cooking, writing, inspiring.

When asked by “Will Write for Food” author, Dianne Jacob, on the topic of what makes a cookbook successful, this is what Ruhlman had to say:


… as far as I’m concerned, what makes it [a cookbook] successful is the fact that it encourages people to cook. That’s my main goal. If I can inspire more people to cook, the book is a success. If it furthers and spreads valuable cooking information it’s successful. If it adds something new to the world and of food and cooking, then it is successful. Those are my definitions of success.
With this next cookbook I’m working on, The Fridge Whisperer: Sunday Supper… any night of the week, I’ve got to tell you, I was having serious doubts I could pull it off. Me, trying to pen recipes tethered to Slow Food; multi-coursed Sunday supper-worthy fare, the lot doable in about an hour on Humpnight.

Who was I kidding?

Then I read Ruhlman’s words and I knew I was on the right path; to stay the course. That I could most definitely pull off this fourth title.

Fridge Whisperer’s first three books have encouraged timid cooks to go fearlessly back into their kitchen. My warriors write to say so.

Time and again home cooks tell me that — fueled by Fridge Whisperer’s how-to videos — seeing me create some of the more challenging recipes with such ease in my own kitchen has given them the courage to recreate them in theirs. They tell me they understand various cooking techniques like pan searing, creating a fond, proper stir-frying; methods they didn’t realize they were performing simply by following the recipe. They now understand why it’s important to heat the pan before adding the oil or butter. Why I always say “swirl to coat” so I know they’ve got the right pan temperature to begin the cooking process. Why cooking times in a half hour recipe can take upwards of 20 minutes longer because the chops hit the skillet directly from the fridge.

So, thank you Michael Ruhlman. You’ve inspired me. Again.


Larb-a-licious…

I had a great time yesterday morning taste driving my version of Thailand’s larb (a.k.a. laab; laap; labb;larp) spicy meat hand roll. The recipe turned out so good, in fact, that I brought it to our 24 eager-eater Family Day dinner that afternoon.

This communal appetizer was a big hit, especially with the young adults hovering around the humongous centre island in the kitchen. These kids are one with Toronto’s melting pot of incredible ethnic flavours. They had no qualms mixing mint leaves, sweet-sticky fried pork and peanuts with cilantro, bean sprouts and cucumber. The bib lettuce leaves used to contain the larb ingredients held their own… as long as we didn’t overload them.

This is the recipe I’m sending to Ottawa this week. It will be tested verbatim by Fridge Whisperer Tester-Taster Laurent B. You may remember my introducing you to him in July 2010 when he toured your friendly neighbourhood Fridge Whisperer through his Porta Pia neighbourhood in Rome.

Laurent’s challenge is to recreated my original larb recipe using his own culinary DNA. Switch it up to the point that I no longer recognize it.

I’m confident Laurent’s the guy for the job.

For one thing, he’s a a savvy world traveler; been there, ate that. I’m certain he’s tasted many versions of larb directly from Thailand’s many street vendors.

If Laurent’s version of larb does make the grade, his recipe will be featured in my next cookbook, The Fridge Whisperer: Sunday Supper… any night of the week.

What’s that? How can larb possibly be considered Sunday supper grub?

In Thailand they add sticky rice to the offering to create a full meal; protein, starch, vegetables.

I think larb is a perfect entree choice for a perfect Sunday supper.

It stir-fries fast, tastes divine, it’s healthy and cost pennies to make.

All the touchstones of a true Fridge Whisperer recipe wrapped up in crisp lettuce leaves.


Two out of three ain’t bad: recipe testing sans Meatloaf…

I spent most of Family Day weekend testing recipes for the next book, The Fridge Whisperer: Sunday Supper… any night of the week.

This first set of recipes were “selected.” These were the ones going to my Fridge Whisperer Tester-Tasters. I had to make sure they were as good as I knew how to get them in the alloted time; entrees doable in less than three-quarters of an hour.

I was going gangbusters on Saturday afternoon after I’d returned from the market. The final count, three recipes, one flop.

I don’t know why I thought I could prep a traditional Slow Food recipe in a food processor.

Suffice to say, “Humpnight Ratatouille” was a bust.

Instead of being one with the ingredients, I pulse-chopped them in the food processor then cranked the heat to medium-high so the ratatouille would cook in half the time. It did. But cooking it so fast didn’t allow for the natural sugars in the vegetables to leach out and caramelize on the bottom of the skillet. That’s where the magic happens. All that lovely, sticky-brown fond just waiting to be deglazed.

The vegetables were fork-tender after 20 minutes but there was absolutely no flavour. I set the timer for another 10 minutes; still well within my timing guidelines for a weeknight dinner entree. Then another 10, and another, and another.

Then I gave up timing altogether and cooked the life out of it. Two hours later, the ratatouille had reduced to a thick salsa-like consistency, but still lacked the depth of flavour that this dish is known for.

I hate to give up.

I hit the ratatouille with a squirt of my reduced balsamic glaze, tasted it and, nadda.

Then I added another tablespoon of my Fridge Whisper no-salt dried vegetable seasoning.

Still nadda.

Finally I succumbed. I added a teaspoon of kosher salt.

Here’s a pic of the ratatouille before it when in the green bin.

I know what you’re thinking.

Wouldn’t that extra one hour of cooking time have developed depth of flavour?

Apparently not.

What I discovered is that each ingredient must be given its time to shine; to be one with the saute pan. The natural sugars release. The heat in the pan does its job. And you have a stunningly beautiful fond to frolic with.

So ratatouille will not be making its appearance in my next cookbook. It will, however, some day see the light of day in a coffee table cookbook on Slow Food. Replete with amazing food porn photography.


The Christmas dinner that kept on giving…

Seems this has been the week of Fridge Whisperer guest bloggers. Today’s no different.

Introducing Mel G, a well-seasoned RV owner-road warrior and, by all appearances, a mighty fine cook, too.

Mel recreated “A Yuletide Movable Feast” prime rib dinner that I created for the November/December 2011 issue of RV Gazette.

Here’s the recipe:

Yuletide Prime Rib Dinner with Horseradish Cream (serves 2)

Although most opt for turkey or ham (or both!) to take centre stage on their holiday dining table, a decadent well-marbled prime rib roast is also a popular choice. And because it can be purchased as a small one-bone roast, it makes the perfect choice for an elegant dinner for two with enough left over for sandwiches the next day.

For the freshest, most tender prime rib, source locally raised AAA beef from a quality butcher shop in the area you are touring.

1 one-bone prime rib roast (about 3 pounds), brought to room temperature before cooking
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
1 tablespoon “no salt” dried vegetable seasoning (try Mrs. Dash)
4 medium red skin potatoes, washed, dried and quartered
1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 2-inch chunks
1 small fennel bulb, fronds removed and bulb quartered lengthwise through the root end
1 large white onion, peeled and quartered lengthwise through the root end
1 whole head of garlic, top third of bulb sliced off to expose cloves

• Coat a shallow heavy- bottomed roasting pan with vegetable spray.
• Mix olive oil with garlic and slather on both sides of prime rib and set inside prepared roasting pan.
• In another large mixing bowl, toss together canola oil, vegetable seasoning and vegetables until well coated, then arrange in roasting pan around beef.
• Place pan in a preheated 375F oven and roast for 45 minutes or until vegetables are golden brown and fork tender. The prime rib will be medium rare; about 130F internal temperature.
• Remove pan from oven, tent with foil, and let roast rest 15 minutes before slicing and serving.

Horseradish Cream (makes about ½ cup)

2 tablespoon hot or mild commercially prepared horseradish
½ cup low-fat mayonnaise
1 teaspoon “no salt” dried vegetable seasoning (try Mrs. Dash)

• Stir all ingredients together and refrigerate until ready to use. Store leftover sauce in the fridge and use within 5 days.

And here’s what Mel said…


Hi Deb,

Tonight, Joan and I had another dinner from the leftover roast and veggies. And there’s still enough for several “heroic” sandwiches to come!

My prime rib was a one-bone roast, cap-on, about four pounds+. To slice it, I used my new Kuraidori knives that I had purchased at Home Hardware. There is a separate story here (I spent three years trying to find good knives), and I would recommend these knives to anyone.

Joan and I were not at all impressed with the ‘fennel’ as it had nothing going for it. (Like eating cooked celery), but the spuds, carrots and onions done with Mrs. Dash: whooo-boy!

Thanks for the nice meal.

Mel


Obviously I was overzealous in my lust for prime rib and I ate more than my fair share when tasting the results of my recipe testing.

To be fair to me, my roast was only a paltry three pounds. ;-)


Guest blogger, Martina Mercer, from “across the pond” and her wonderful culinary lavender…

It’s so gratifying when my readers write to tell me what’s up in their kitchens.

Such was the case last week when I received a kind and generous email from Lavender World in the UK wishing to tell my warriors what’s cooking on the other side of the pond with their homegrown Yorkshire culinary lavender.

Martina Mercer is the writer-at-large for LavenderWorld and it’s her words below that gives us a virtual scent of their English lavender.


It’s quite surprising that only recently lavender has begun to make its name in the culinary world. Closely related to mint and rosemary, lavender has a full fragrant flavour that can be used in almost any sweet or savoury dish.

The trick to using lavender is to remember that only a little is needed; English lavender is the herb-of-choice for cooking. Be it dried or fresh, too much lavender in a dish can leave a bitter over-perfumed taste.

Used sparingly, lavender adds fragrant notes that are impossible to replicate with any other herb in the garden.

Savoury Dishes:
An easy way to introduce lavender into your cooking is to replace rosemary with it. Or even use half and half. These two herb plants complement each other perfectly and will add a depth of flavour to any dish. Roast lamb, pierced with lavender and garlic, or roast potatoes fried with dried lavender are both succulent, mouth-watering dishes that make the most of this versatile herb.

Lavender will also add a unique flavour to a bouquet garni, tied neatly with string along with bay leaves, thyme, rosemary and sage, it will add depth to the heartiest of stews, stocks or soups. Remember though to use your own lavender grown from seed as many garden centres use pesticides on their plants that are not intended for human consumption.

Sweet Dishes:
Lavender truly comes alive when used in sweet dishes. World renowned restaurants are now enjoying not only the flavour it adds to a dish, but the aesthetically pleasing appearance on a plate. The tiny purple flowers are edible making them a marvellous decoration for a myriad of desserts whilst adding a scent that is unrivalled.

Biscuits, ice creams, flans and custards all benefit from lavender, however if you’re unsure how to use in a recipe start slowly with this simple tip…

In a jar place stems of lavender and fill with caster [granulated] sugar, seal for at least a week before using [sugar] in baking for cakes, biscuits and other desserts. Lavender blends well with chocolate too, the most popular choice being white chocolate, so try some white chocolate and lavender brownies, or make caraway biscuits using lavender instead.

Just as rosemary stems are wonderful for making vegetable kebabs; strong lavender stems are perfect for fruit. Remove all the leaves first and gently poke the stems through the fruit. Eat immediately dipping in chocolate sauce and you’ll appreciate the delicate flavour that is absorbed by the food.

Lavender blooms also look amazing in a flute of champagne and add a romantic purple hue to the drink whilst being thoroughly edible.


Wow! Thanks so much Martina. Such creativity! I will never look at my garden lavender the same ever again.

For those warriors not lucky enough to have their own lavender garden, Lavenderworld provides a wide range of high quality and innovative lavender-infused products for sale online.


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